Gardening in Winter

We’re well past the winter solstice. The days are getting longer, and spring is on its way.

There are always a few things that can be done outdoors to prepare for the upcoming garden season, even in January. The things I am working on this month are often considered best done in the fall or spring, but in my climate (zone 6b) it’s neither too late nor too early.

Poppy seeds need to be exposed to the elements. A good way to do this would be to follow the guidelines at http://www.wintersown.org/

I prefer to sow poppies directly where I want them to grow, mostly because it saves me the work of transplanting. The danger in doing this is that heavy rains might wash the seeds away or cover them in mud. (Using wintersown practices can circumvent this problem.) I level the area ahead of time, touching it up twice or thrice after rains and freezes before sowing. If I were sowing a large area this would be too much work, but I’m not. Poppy seeds needn’t be buried since they are so small, only scattered thinly over a prepared area. They will come up at the right time.

I’m planting poppies in what will be this year’s squash beds. I noticed a couple of years ago that squash bugs were on every squash plant except for the one with poppies nearby. Unfortunately the poppies die off in the heat before the squash is mature. This year I intend to use poppies as a deterrent plant in conjunction with a trap crop, the idea being that the squash bugs will focus on the early unprotected sacrificial planting and not the squash plants I want to keep. The poppies may also help shade out weeds until squash foliage fills in.

The other little job I am working on is transplanting Jerusalem artichokes. Yes, they are practically frozen right now. I like to think of it as suspended animation – the perfect time to transplant! They will form a border along the road and leading up the driveway. The soil there was unimproved red clay and rock until a few years ago, when I planted a few sprigs of hairy vetch along the fencerow. The fence is long since pulled down by the vetch, a fair trade for the beautiful brown soil beneath. You don’t need good soil for Jerusalem artichokes, but it doesn’t hurt.

Jerusalem artichokes are fun to grow. They don’t require any work. You just plant one where you want a whole lot more; then come back and get them – my kind of food. In the meantime, the stems and leaves and sometimes flowers make lots of shade - use this foreknowledge to your advantage. It’s always a surprise how much foliage that one little tuber brings forth, and it’s always a surprise how many more tubers have appeared from the one. And they aren’t always small; the biggest ones are the size of medium potatoes.

How do you eat them? Like most of my vegetables, I prefer them raw. I’ve read that you can steam them or cook them the way you would potatoes, only about a third as long, because they turn mushy. I cut them into chips and eat them either plain or with salsa. You don’t have to peel them, but they require a little scrubbing to get them clean if you leave the skins on. They are crisp and slightly sweet.

Another little chore this time of year is to spread ashes from the woodstove out onto the garden. Some years I spread them on flowerbeds instead, but only when the garden soil pH is above neutral – wouldn’t want to make it too alkaline.

Wood ashes contain minerals drawn up from deep in the soil. I think it’s important to put these in the garden to replenish minerals you remove in the form of food. Two of the most important elements in wood ashes are calcium and potassium. If you need to lime your soil you can use wood ashes instead, but at a higher rate.

You must use caution spreading ashes, because if there are any hot coals in them you could easily start a fire. Make sure the ashes are cold and burned out, and even then it may be unwise to spread them over flammable materials like oak leaves.

These are the things to do outside on beautiful Ozark afternoons in January.

Personal Seed Bank

I suppose most of you have heard of the Doomsday Vault in the far north, where millions of seeds from around the world are being stored in case of global catastrophe. That’s all good and well for the future of our species (and, of course, the thousands of species being stored there,) but what would you do if such a catastrophe happened? Hike and boat your way to the Arctic Circle and fight off the polar bears, only to find that you can’t open the vault, or that others have beat you to it and eaten all the seeds? Even a relatively small and localized catastrophe, lasting longer than a few days, can mean food supplies will be in short supply. In the worst case scenario, if you were on your own for months or years, a personal seed stock would be vital.

There’s another reason to save your own seeds. Many old-fashioned varieties have already become extinct due to the promotion of hybrid varieties over the last century. Some seed companies specialize in open-pollinated and heirloom varieties, which come true from seed, but what’s available one year may not be the next. For the sake of preserving your favorite varieties of vegetables and grains (some tropical seeds and tree seeds don’t store under the same conditions) that are in danger of extinction, you should consider storing rare seeds long-term in your own personal seed bank.

There are two variables that are most important for seed longevity: temperature and moisture. Harrington’s Rule states that for every 1% decrease in seed moisture content, or every 10 degrees F decrease in storage temperature, seed life doubles. So by simply keeping the seeds a little dryer and cooler than the conditions inside your house, the lifespan of the seeds increases dramatically. Frozen seeds can last for generations. At room temperature, without proper drying, a few years is all you can expect.

The moisture content of dried seeds stored in your house is probably roughly 10-12% or more (depending on where you live.) It’s best to keep your seeds around 7-8%, or even as low as 5-6% if you want to freeze them (less than that the seeds will likely die.) If a seed breaks when you bend it, it is dry enough. You can lower the moisture in your house with air conditioning, which is convenient when you harvest seeds in the summer. There are many food-grade desiccants available to help keep moisture content low in seeds stored at room temperature. You can re-dry the desiccant in the oven if necessary.

When storing at room temperature, there are insects and microorganisms to consider, and the metabolism of the seeds. Problems relating to these factors can be greatly reduced by removing a single element: oxygen. Cultures around the globe have various traditions to deal with this. Often they fill the airspace around the seeds with something inert, like sand or dust. Small seeds would be hard to find in sand, whereas beans and some grains would not be difficult to sift out. Some of these materials, such as lime or wood ashes, also have the added benefit of acting against insects. One might use Diatomaceous Earth instead. Any of these dusty materials can first be oven dried to also act as desiccants.

A traditional method for removing oxygen from sealed containers is to place a small oil lamp or candle inside and light it just before sealing. This burns out oxygen in a short time. This method is used in cultures where the seed is normally sown within a year or two, so I would wonder how much heat is released in the process, and if it is enough to shorten the seeds’ lifespan?

A more modern method to reduce or remove oxygen in a sealed container is to simply replace it with another gas. Some have used carbon dioxide, which can be purchased in bottles or in the form of dry ice. If you use dry ice, remember not to seal the container until after it has completely evaporated, or the container may burst from pressure. Another gas used to replace oxygen in seed storage is nitrogen. Liquid nitrogen is used in cryogenic seed storage systems. Those are very expensive systems…

In my experience as a carpenter, I encountered a product called BLOxygen, which is used to replace oxygen in oil-based paint and stain containers to make them last longer. As it happens, this was inspired by something similar used in the winemaking industry. As it further happens, Bloxygen is a medical grade equivalent mixture of nitrogen, argon, and carbon dioxide, which is perfect for use in extending seed longevity! A can is about ten bucks, and has over a minutes’ worth of “air” in it. It doesn’t take much to replace the oxygen. I don’t have any hard data for you, but to my thinking a half-second to a one second blast will do the job for small to medium sized seed containers, so you could get over a hundred applications from one can. Not too expensive, but I think it would be most economical to only use it for seeds one intends to keep for more than 3 years or so. http://www.bloxygen.com/faq.html

Oxygen content can also be reduced by vacuum. The easiest way to do this is with a vacuum sealer designed for kitchen use. If you don’t have one you can use a piece if small tubing to suck out as much air as possible. I found an innovative system that uses a modified bicycle pump. You can check out the plans here: http://www.saveseeds.org/tools/tool_vacuum_pack.html

As for temperature, obviously you can only go so far without refrigeration. Without it, you can keep your seed bank near the floor rather than the ceiling and hope for the best. Underground rooms usually stay cooler than those above ground.

But most of us at least have a refrigerator or freezer. Depending on the size of the collection, this is often the best option. A chest freezer is better because the cold air stays put when opened, whereas in an upright freezer it falls out. This is especially important during power outages.

What happens if there is an extended power outage, or if you happen to live where there is no power? If you are really serious about long-term storage, you might consider a solar-powered chest freezer. They are available in a variety of sizes. NASA designed the best one I found. You can read about it here: http://www.alphasolar.com/alpha_solar_118.htm It comes in 5.8 and 8 cubic feet sizes, so this one would be practical for a fairly large amount of seed. It is heavily insulated, so it can keep cold for a week with no sun. It is tremendously cheaper than liquid nitrogen storage, and could operate for years without grid power.

Always allow frozen sealed seed containers to warm to room temperature before opening, to avoid condensation.

Between keeping your seeds dry and cold, versus storing them at room temperature and ambient moisture, you can expect them to last decades or longer instead of just a few years.

Another important factor in seed longevity is choice of containers. They should be airtight and not promote condensation. Glass jars with rubber-gasket lids are probably best. For individual packets, if you aren’t using vacuum packaging, foil packs are best. Zip-lock packets are okay; at least squeeze the air out of them before sealing. If they are going to be sealed in an airtight jar anyway, especially when you have taken precaution to replace oxygen, coin envelopes would be sufficient.

Edible Flowers

I received as a gift Lasagna Gardening With Herbs by Patricia Lanza. Ordinarily, I would have been too concerned with vegetables and compost to buy a book about herbs, but it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable gardening books I've read. Perhaps the most interesting thing I learned was that there are many edible flowers. My inner chef found that part intriguing.

I have eaten a few flowers. Off the top of my head I can list: battered and fried squash blossoms, borage flowers, and artichokes. But there are some I’ve eaten that I wouldn’t have thought of, namely saffron, capers, and dill. But these make up only the tip of the iceberg.

Flowers are used for flavorings, garnishes, candies, pickles... the list goes on. I'll list just a few ideas that sound good to me, but I highly recommend this book for further reading.

Basil flowers, she claims, are just as flavorful as the leaves (does that mean I can leave trimming the basils off the list of chores?!) Lanza recommends using them in much the same way as you do the leaves, but also mentions something that sounds really tasty, basil flower butter. I can imagine using that on garlic bread along with a nice pasta meal.

Another flower butter that sounds good to me is bee balm butter. Her recipe is 1/2 cup of petals mashed into 1 lb. of softened butter. If you don't already grow bee balm, you should. It's attractive, but better yet, it's attractive to bees!

Apparently, the flowers of peas and beans have flavors resembling what is to come from them. This could be an interesting way to get the same flavor in a prettier package. Lanza suggests using Scarlet Runner Bean flowers on new potatoes.

Imagine the possibilities with the delicate flowers of chives or garlic chives. They'd make a great topping to a salad drizzled with vinegar and oil.

Daylilly flowers are another exciting possibility! I quote the following from page 125: "After a good shaking to dislodge any insects, I wash the flowers, remove the stamens, and fill them with herbed cream cheese. The flowers are crunchy, with a pleasant, subtle flavor." Now doesn't that sound fancy? And who knew the daylillies just outside my front door could be used in the kitchen?

Hibiscus flowers are edible also. What beauties! I learned on the IDigMyGarden forums this summer that okra leaves are edible - okra is a type of hibiscus, so I assume okra flowers are edible. You can bet that I'll be trying them next summer!

Without going into detail, I offer a short list of other flowers that appeal to me for use in the kitchen: chrysanthemums, dianthus, elderberry, hyssop, lavender, mint, nasturtiums, oregano, and to top it off, roses. You have to remove the white part at the base of the rose petals, which is bitter.

It is important to note that not all flowers are edible. Please make sure they are before you eat them, as some are deadly! Also, it's a good idea to know where they came from and if they were sprayed with chemicals, etc. Me, I'll only be eating the ones I grew myself or found in the deep wild.

Meeting Gardeners

These days, the most interesting people I meet, I find in gardening forums. But then, I don't get around much anymore... But last spring was different - two days a week I manned the helm at the Heirloom Seed Shop in Norfork, Arkansas.

It's not an ordinary seed shop. It's very small, one 12' x 16' room. Even so, it's in such a small town that you can't miss it. But what's really unusual is that all the proceeds go directly to the Food Bank of North Central Arkansas. It serves the purpose of feeding the hungry, of whom there are many, but the real thought behind it is enabling them to feed themselves. "Teach a man to fish, and he'll eat for a lifetime." With heirloom seeds, one need only make a low initial investment, from which may come generations worth of food. Just save your seeds!

In fact, it was in 2002, if memory serves me, that my father and I wandered into Gene Boyd's office to talk rabbits, and came out with a few packs of heirloom seeds. It was the first time I'd heard the term [heirloom seeds], although I was already aware of the serious global loss of genetic diversity of crop seeds. I learned that from good old Dr. Kinser at the UCA science department. But I digress...

As I understand it, the Heirloom Seed Shop was Gene's brainchild. He had just started the program, and was still selling seeds out of the office closet. Well, I was hooked. I have grown heirloom vegetables ever since. At some point, Gene and a volunteer carpenter built the little shop from green wood. It turned out really nice, I wish I had been a part of that.

Gene's wife Sharon ended up working the little shop. As my garden grew, I became a regular, stopping in to buy seeds a few times each year. Once as I was apologizing for such a small purchase (one or two packs,) Sharon laughed and divulged that I was their best customer. This alarmed me - surely I wasn't the only one planting this meager amount of seed? I wished that I had the time to volunteer and help educate the public about heirlooms, or at least do my part to feed the hungry. I was hungry, once, and it was miserable.

As fate would have it, I lost the ability to do the only work I know how, so I found myself with the time to volunteer. I had big plans, but needed volunteers to carry most of them out. Volunteers are in short supply in this day and age, and luck isn't always on our side... But I did accomplish a few things, like the small Three Sisters display garden. Also, I grew dozens of tomato and pepper seedlings to sell.

Coming full circle, I met a few really interesting people selling those seeds.

One was a gregarious fellow named John, who is a market grower. He stops by the Food Bank on Farmers Market days to donate any unsold produce. Sometimes he just stops in to talk or buy seeds. His business selling heirloom veggies at the farmers market is booming, and he now has customers paying in advance!

One was an extremely talented tattoo artist I had been trying to track down for 11 years, Wild Child. What a strange way to finally meet. It turns out she had set up shop in the town I was born in. Small world.

Two were a couple of gringos from Mexico, Rosanna and Kelley, who enlightened me on various and sundry subjects.

One was a generous Master Gardener, Barbara, who donated plants for us to sell, and beautiful wildflowers to put in our flowerbed. She had the idea that someone from the Heirloom Seed Shop should give a talk to the Baxter County Master Gardeners about heirloom vegetables. I passed this up the line, and it was passed back to me. Gulp. Public Speaking terrifies me. But I'm scheduled for an upcoming meeting. I was fortunate enough to be asked to be a speaker at the June festival at Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds last summer, so I broke through my fear and did it. It was an hour-long talk, and after I got warmed up, I could have talked forever. Now I have the experience and confidence to educate and entertain this somewhat intimidating crowd of experts. As an aside, I'm looking for a wide array of Hubbard squash varieties to gift to Barbara, if anyone can assist with a few seeds.

Somewhere in there, I met a dynamic duo from the local newspaper, reporter JoAnne Bratton and photographer Kevin Pieper. They did a story on the Heirloom Seed Shop, and it was a great opportunity for me to help educate the public. They both did a great job! Kevin even drove out to my house to take photos of the heirloom plants in my garden.

While I was disappointed in the low local interest in heirloom seeds, I believe I made a difference. Many of the folks who did stop in said they read about it in the Baxter Bulletin. Hopefully next year will be even better. There's talk of expanding.

Winter Veggies

In the picture to the right, you can see the outline and location where my greenhouse will be built. You are looking at the eastern half of my garden as it appears in the end of November. The structure will be just to the left of center as you enter the garden.

Beds of cover crops are visible in the background. These will be either tilled in or removed and composted before planting next spring. Meanwhile, I graze on some of them, particularly mustard greens and Swiss chard.

With only minimal protection, there are several vegetables that can be grown in winter. I'm in climate zone 6b. If you are in a colder zone, you may need to provide more serious protection, perhaps an insulated cold frame - or none at all if you're in a warmer zone.

Lettuce and snap peas are more likely to suffer from frost than mustard or kale, so be ready to cover them with reemay or similar, or grow them in plastic covered low-tunnels. Root crops like parsnips and carrots tend to store very well left right where they are - just pull them up when you need them.

Heirloom Lettuce Mix

Florida Broadleaf Mustard

Garden Peas

Greenhouse Project

Back to the greenhouse...

My original plan was to build a 1 1/2 story octagon. Planned it down to the last square inch. Something wasn't right, though. There wouldn't be enough light for the amount of floor space, not to mention that the cost for the roofing materials was, well, through the roof. Back to the drawing board.

So, I designed a simpler one based on recycling the materials at hand. It will be 15' long by 11' wide with a simple 12 in 12 roof pitch. Very traditional. Not exactly my taste, but easy and cheap to build.

I have two sets of glass patio doors that are about the same size - they will make up most of the south-facing roof (south by southeast if you want to get technical.) [There's a third set, but they don't match. I might use them to make a pair of passive solar air heaters, one for the greenhouse, one for the residence.] Then I have a stack of used windows. Four of them are fairly large, 30" x 60", as I recall. They will make up most of the south ( by southeast) facing wall. The remainder of the windows, along with some other glass, will be used on the two end walls. I think I have a storm door somewhere for getting in and out... The North wall (and north facing roof) need to be insulated and reflecting.

Framing could be simple, but that's no fun. I like to celebrate wood. Why use a perfectly functional 2x4 when you can use an oversized log? This wouldn't be practical for many of you, but I live in the middle of a forest. Frankly, it's easier for me to thin out a couple of cedar trees than to go pick up a load of lumber. I choose cedars because I want a rot-resistant wood for the greenhouse, but it also happens to be that they are quick and easy to cut down and de-limb. Well, they used to be. Now that I'm disabled, one is all the work I can handle, on a good day.

Hewing flat sides on the timbers will likewise be a slow process for me. But I do what I can, when I can. It will get done eventually.

Hopefully that will be sooner rather than later, because I need to begin working on 2008 seedlings by February. The 2007 lot filled the master bathroom before it was all said and done. And I do mean "filled." I had seedlings all around the tub, all around my sink, on the floor - I even had a tray of seedlings on the back of the toilet. My wife is 100% behind my greenhouse project.

I think I mentioned before, my neighbor came over and helped dig the footing. I use the term footing loosely. It won't be a footing exactly, but more of a drainage area filled with rocks and gravel. The framing is basically the same as a pole barn - the cedar posts will be set in post holes in contact with the ground. All the weight will be transferred to the posts, so a load-bearing footing isn't necessary. The wood in contact with the ground will rest on this drainage gravel, extending its lifespan.

So far there hasn't been much progress. I do have the ground pretty much ready to accept the building, and I've cut one tree down. It's ready to drag across the lawn to the worksite, where I'll prepare the timbers. I have the truck today, so I will probably go outside later and drag the pole up with a chain. Like I said, slow and steady.

Building this greenhouse out of hand crafted timbers will pay off later when I'm spending lots of time in there. There will be a nice ambience between the mix of natural curves and hand-hewn sides - sort of Japanese styling. I can sit and work on the logs when I'm letting the dog out for a walk, or whenever. I hope to inspire some of you readers to build your own, in your own style, of course. More updates and photos will be on the way intermittently, so stay tuned!

I know the true meaning of Thanksgiving, but I can't help associating it with food. I think of all the toothsome dishes: roasted turkey, sweet potato casserole, cranberry sauce, pecan pie... and everything in between. I feel stuffed and sleepy already. Blissful indulgence.

The side dish (dessert?) that really does me in is my sister's Sweet Potato Casserole. If you have a sweet tooth, you really have to try this:
Ingredients
2 large sweet potatoes, peeled, boiled, and drained, and mashed with 1/3 cup oleo
1/2 cup sugar
2 eggs
1 tspn vanilla
1/3 cup milk

Topping Ingredients
1 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup flour
1/3 cup melted oleo
1 cup pecans

Bake at 375 for 25 - 30 minutes, until bubbly and sugar is carmelized.

Try it, you'll love it! It's too good for words.

In the past several years, I've come to favor fried turkeys. On Thanksgiving, it just wouldn't be right. Roasted is the only way to go. I love how it takes hours and hours of careful attention and basting, and the whole house is filled with that wonderful aroma.

In my family tradition, we always have mashed potatoes and gravy with turkey. (Yeah, and sweet potatoes. You need lots of carbs with that turkey to get a really good nap afterwards.) I've seen a lot of people make mashed potatoes in my day, and every one of them has a slightly different take on it. Brown potatoes, red potatoes, gold potatoes. Skin on, skin off. Gobs of butter to only a pat. Whipped, creamy, chunky. Some folks even fold eggs into them - I plan to try that next time. The variations for such a simple dish are astounding.

And lets not even get started on gravy... That's as controversial as cornbread stuffing vs. bread stuffing. Or politics and religion.

Which reminds me, I almost forgot my mother-in-law's Cornbread Stuffing for Turkey:
Ingredients
Double batch of cornbread, unsweetened
3 - 4 celery stalks, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
2 tbspn butter
3 slices bread, crumbled
3 - 4 eggs
1 tbspn sage
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup water

Crumble the cornbread and place in large bowl. In a skillet, saute onions and celery in butter until glossy. Add to cornbread. Stir in additional ingredients. Texture should be moist and can form a ball, but not too sticky. Stuff some into the turkey and cook according to directions. Place remainder in 9 x 13 pan and bake at 350 until golden brown.

How's that for compromise?

Something I discovered on my neverending adventure of growing heirloom vegetables is the Seminole Pumpkin. I bought the seeds from Baker Creek Seed Co. a few years ago. This is truly a Native American pumpkin. It comes from the Seminole Indians of Florida. It has very long vines, so the Seminoles would plant them at the base of dead trees. The plants would climb the tree, and the little pumpkins hung like ornaments. Seminole pumpkins aren't very large, but they have BIG flavor! It is unquestionably the richest pumpkin or squash I've ever eaten, having nutty aftertones. They keep for up to a year. What I like to do with them is cut the top off and hollow them out as you would a Jack O' Lantern, bake them until nearly done, and stuff them with Thanksgiving dinner leftovers, especially sweet potato casserole and cranberry sauce. Then I finish baking. One serves 2 or 3 people.

I enjoy growing squash, sweet potatoes, green beans, sweet corn, and anything else that could possibly be eaten at Thanksgiving dinner. Heirloom varieties offer a wide range of flavors, textures, and colors. I was amazed to discover the wide array of heirloom sweet potatoes - I counted 80 in the Sand Hill Presevation Center poultry and seed catalog (they sell exotic turkeys as well...) Colors range from white to orange to purple to red, both flesh and skin. Some are gigantic, some are small, some are rough, some are smooth. That's the beauty of heirlooms - diversity.

Well, now I'm working up a proper appetite for tomorrow!